Episode 4

Let's go Surfing


Leo is talking to Flo and says “Flo, Vector and I are going over to the Frog House to look at some surfboards. We will be back after that” Leo said stepping out from the trailer and walked over to Vector who was in his truck waiting for him. Driving down the Coast Highway towards the Santa Ana River jetty they pull over at the Frog House. Going in Leo walks over to the board rack and sees a 7’ 6” Bing Surfboard with round pintail with a shaped by Mike Eaton on the lower portion of the deck. He pulls it out and looks at it for about 10 minutes and says to Vector “I like this board, I’m going to get it.” Vectot turns to Leo and says “Yeah nice board” as he sees a used 9’6” G&S Skip Frye model. He walks over to it and pull it off the rack and places it on the carpet floor looking at the deck then the bottom.


The salesman comes over and says “Hi, my name is Paul can I help you.” Yeah, how much is it” Vector said. Paul answers back “Lets see, the price has been taken off, it’s $90.” “Why was it for sale” asked Leo. “The owner was moving to Oregon and decided to sell it” Paul said. Leo wanted the board and was thinking it over when Paul remarked “I will throw in 2 bars of wax for free.” “I take it” Leo said. “That’s $90 with 2 bar of wax as well” Paul said. “I would like to buy the 9’6” G&S” Vector said pointing to the board on the floor. “Ok, thats $100 with 3 bars of wax” Paul said.


“How much is your wetsuits” asked Leo. “The long john’s are $85, the short johns are $55 and the Beaver tails are $60. Would you like to try them on, there is a dressing at the back of the shop” Paul said. After both Leo and Vector tried out the long john and beaver tails and felt alright in them. “Hows the surf out front” asked Vector. “The wind came up early so it’s not good. I talked to someone about 10 minuets ago and he said Trestle’s was 4-6 ft and in good shape.


After putting the boards into the back of Vector El Camino, Leo says “Lets check the surf out” wanting to surf on his new used board. Not having far to go, they drove over to Brookhurst St. which is less than a mile away and turned around from the direction they came from. They see a few cars park off the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), half in the sand the other half on the road. “Lets check it out” asked Vector. “Ok” Leo said.


Walking over to the jetty and the steel pier that was being dismantled they notice people out surfing a left breaking wave from the Newport Beach side towards the mouth of the Santa Ana river. “Hey that looks like fun. Lets go out” Leo said. “I’m with you” replied Vector as the hurried back to Vector’s El Camino and the boards. Having a couple of towels behind the seat they cover the lower half of their bodies and put on their wetsuits.


Walking back to the water’s edge they paddle out and the wind was starting to pickup. Sitting further north than the guys by the peak. Vector sees a wave and he paddles for it and stands up. With the tide being low, the wave walled up and within a few seconds the front end of Vector’s board did a nose dive in front of the wave. Vector get launched like the cartoon character Superman, before splashing onto the water and going into a tumbling cycle in 5 feet of water.


Leo was watching what had happen to Vector from behind and would let the set of waves pass. Then he noticed a peak with a shoulder and paddled for it, taking off at an angle. Making it to the bottom and gliding across the section before the wave turned into a wall and collapsed in front of him as he straighten out and slowed down before jumping off onto the sandy bottom placing a hand on the surfboard as not to let it drift away.


Vector and Leo would adjust to the waves and catch a few short rides before going in and returning back home. Back at home Vector is building surfboard racks in the barn for their surfboards. Leo is in the trailer writing down of things to do as he is listening to a FM radio station. He hears someone mentioning this is Gabriel Wisdom with the noon day surf report from San Diego. It’s 4-6 ft and fair shape. Then he hears someone else from Huntington Beach say its 3-4 ft and poor conditions followed by Hermosa Beach and Ventura.


Cleaning around the property, Leo says “I heard the surf report and there is surf down south. Care to go surf to San Diego tomorrow” asked Leo as they were loading up his truck and trailer with branches, weeds and old lumber that had been laying in the field for years. “I have to ask Artemesia if she has plans for tomorrow, but that sounds good to me. Will let you know after we get back from the dump” Vector said.


Artemesia was in the trailer, sitting in the kitchen with Flo talking about going to South Coast Plaza the next day. “Need to get some living room furniture and some clothes and shoes. Do you want to go to South Coast Plaza and do some shopping” asked Artemesia. “I was thinking about going up to the Mart in the garment district in LA, but that can wait. Sure I will go with you” Flo answered back.


Rocky, Frank and Velidia had started classes at the local coast college nearby and were getting use to being in school. They were busy attending their classes and had homework to do. During a two hour break between classes Rocky and Frank were discussing their situation and thinking about getting some surfboards. “Rocky I was talking with some guys in class who surf and they mentioned about their last surf session. How a fun they had surfing Salt Creek, just the three of them. One of them asked if I surfed. I told them I just moved here from Panama and would learn as soon as I got a surfboard. My schedule is open tomorrow, let go gets some surfboards” Frank said.


“Ok, don’t have any classes tomorrow. What about going to Huntington Beach and stop by some shops there” asked Rocky. “Yeah, ok lets plan on it tomorrow around 11” Frank said and started thinking about surfing and his next class. Velidia met two girls in her Oceanography class and would become friends with them. They invited her to go with them to a cafe after class. She did and got to know them better. Meanwhile at the dump “It sure smells and the flys are bugging the heck out of me” Vector mentioned pulling a branch out of the trailer. “We are almost finished” Leo said throwing debri from the back of his truck bed.


After the dump, driving back to the house Leo says “Vector, Flo was thinking about getting a place of our own and let you and Artemesia have the farm with your kids.” “Where were you two thinking about” asked Vector. “Not far, maybe San Clemente or Oceanside” Leo said. “If we go down south tomorrow and surf we can look at some areas down there to get a general idea” Vector suggested. “That’s not a bad idea. I will asked Flo if she wants to go” Leo said.


Later that afternoon Leo is talking to Flo “Vector and I are going surfing tomorrow and look around for some properties in the Oceanside area. “Would you like to come and check it out” asked Leo. “Artemesia and I are going to do some shopping tomorrow. What about you and Vector surf and check out some of places that might interest you and if it is to your liking we can go back during the weekend and I can see and talk about it” Flo said. “Ok, that sounds like a plan” Leo said and would let Vector know and Vector would let Leo that he got the Ok also.


Leo and Vector left the left the house at 4:30 am in Vector’s El Camino, traveling south on the 405 freeway as more traffic was flowing in the opposite direction. Stopping at Doheny State Beach with the sun climbing over the Santa Ana mountains, they watched the blurry lines in the darkness turn into waves of 3 feet rolling towards shore. “Tides kinda low, let keep going further south” Leo said.


Getting on the Coast Highway to San Clemente they park it near the San Clemente pier. The waves were walled and didn’t look inviting, so they got back onto the freeway and drove to Basilone Rd. and pulled off to the shoulder of the road overlooking the coastline. “Hey, the waves look like fun and only a few guys out” Vector said and notice a couple of cars with surfboards pass them as they drove south. “Follow them, they are probably going to the surf” Leo said as Vector got it of park and put it into drive. “There they are pulling into a side road. I will follow” mentioned Vector making a left hand turn.


They came up behind the cars who were paying to get in. It was their turn to pay and the ranger said $1 dollar please, as Vector handed him the dollar. “Kinda expensive” said Leo. “Get a yearly pass and your cost will be much less” replied the ranger. “How much is a yearly pass” asked Vector. “$35” the ranger said giving them their receipt and told them to put it on their dash. Pulling up along side of the beach they watched the surfers ride San Onofre. “Let go out, that looks like fun” Leo said. “What about those waves we saw” asked Vector.


“That’s a long walk up the beach. Maybe next time” Leo said as Vector pulled in facing the ocean. They hurried to put on his wetsuits and wax up. They paddled out and caught about 30 waves each. “Leo, I’m going in. My armpits feel sore where the wetsuit was rubbing there” Vector said seeing another set of waves coming in. “Ok, I’m going in too” Leo said. Drying off and taking their wetsuit off onto the ground. Leo was watching others who had gotten out wash their themselves and their wetsuits with plastic water bottles and thought to himself thats a good idea as he tossed his dirt covered wetsuit in the back of the truck under his board.


Driving down to Oceanside, Vector looked at his gas gauge and noticed it was registering a quarter full. “I’m going to get some gas once we get into Oceanside” Vector said. It wasn’t long after passing the rest stop that they pulled into a gas station. “Hey, this station is cheaper than the one in Costa Mesa. It’s only 65 cent a gallon here compared to 74 cents there” Vector said as he pulled in. Driving east on Highway 76 Leo was looking at the open land area next to Camp Pendleton and on the Oceanside of the road. As they continued looking, they came up to an intersection stating Vista to the right and Fallbrook to the left.


“Let go to Vista and check it out there” Leo mentioned as he looked at the open area that the road went through. As Vector continued to drive Leo was jotting down notes of what he saw and thought. Making a right on Oceanside Blvd. Vector was driving back towards the beach. Then Leo said “Make a left up ahead on El Camino Real.” After hearing Leo, Vector made the turn and thought “Was this the place my car was named after” as he asked out loud. “Never thought of it before, but most likely” Leo said as he kept a watch of the surrounding area writing any for sale sign location.


Passing Batiquitos Lagoon they drove a few miles and the open land to Encinitas Blvd. Where Leo had Vector make a right turn. Going over the hill and down towards the 5 freeway as Vector was driving towards the beach, they came up to a parking lot at the end of the road where Moonlight State Beach is located. Looking a the people and the waves which looked like fun. Knowing the tide was going to high and the temperature was in the low 80’s. Vector said “Lets go out Leo.” Noticing a shower Vector said “Let wash off our wetsuits and just go out in our long johns.” It wasn’t long before they were paddling out. After surfing for another 2 hours, Leo and Vector were physically tired, but were mentally stoked on surfing as they drove home.

      COPYRIGHT 2020 Thomas Takao