Email in a Bottle
The following story of a voyage to Hawaii happened after the Worldwide Computer Crash Scare of 2000. After the non-eventful disruption to everyone’s computer on the first of January, the departure was a few weeks away. There were three individuals for this trip: Captain Ron, First mate Dave, and Myself the crew (Skipper/Owner Johan will join the boat in Hawaii). We were aboard a fifty-five foot Fleming yacht that was well equipped for this passage.
Captain Ron and Dave's main purpose was to deliver the boat to the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor on Oahu before February 13, 2000. My reason in going was to gain experience in making a crossing to Hawaii in a boat, as well as to surf. The February 13th deadline wasn’t because of Valentine Day, but for the reason of obtaining a boat-slip. Johan had been on a waiting list for a slip in the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor for some time. His name came up when the slip became available and was given a time period for his boat to occupy the slip. If the boat weren’t in the assign slip before the designated date, then someone else would be given the opportunity.
Since mid-January was the earliest for the boat to be overhauled and refitted. The departure date was set for the 22nd of January. A cushion of one week was placed into the delivery schedule, but the sense of urgency was still in place. The process for this trip started two months prior to the departure date in late January. After an evening sail in November with a group of sailing enthusiast in search of the green flash, we secured our lines at the docks of the Jolly Roger at Dana Point Harbor. Somewhat wind blown with a hairstyle to match I pulled up a chair and started to discuss the day’s sail.
The conversation drifted towards Hawaii and the voyage that Captain Ron was about to make. He needed an additional member to fill the watch rotation to three. Since the original crewmember that was supposed to go, couldn’t, due to an unexpected circumstance. After contemplating the possibility of going, like some of the other adventurous souls at the table. I indicated that I would go, and Captain Ron had a smile and the look of one less thing to think about going into the holiday season. After making the commitment, I took a drink from my glass of beer and the rest became story.
The voyage began at Oceanside Harbor on a Saturday afternoon the 22nd of January. I was taking with me a 9'4" roundpin surfboard that I had just picked up one hour before leaving on this trip. The boat had been in Oceanside Harbor for a few days after leaving a San Diego boatyard. We motored over to the fuel docks on this day and began taking on 1300 gallons of fuel into the 4 fuel bladders that were on either side of the cabin along the walkway, the forward bow section and the stern fantail. The boat’s tanks had been filled in San Diego and filling the bladders was the last thing on the list. The boat had 2200 gallons of fuel for the trip. The forward fuel bladder which contained 300 gallons of fuel was held in place with a 6’ X 6’ cradle made with 2x 6s and lashed down with ropes.
The fueling took an hour, after which we left slowly out of the harbor. Looking over the breakwater from the fly bridge as we motored towards the entrance of the harbor. There were a few surfers out at the north jetty. The waves were 2 to 3 feet, glassy, and breaking in a 54 degree high tide manner. The water temperature had been cold for quite some time and the thought of surfing in trunks made the departure somewhat more inviting.
Captain Ron had done his homework over the holidays. He took into consideration the fuel consumption of the twin Catapillar engines. When the refueling from the bladders should take place and the course and amount of time it would take to get to Hawaii. Once passed the breakwater the throttle was pressed forward and we began cruising at 8 knots. Looking back as our wake of white returned to the color of greenish blue gray of the coastal waters as the buildings faded behind us.
Captain Ron
A few hours out I spotted something floating some 50 yards to our starboard beam. Pointing to it we decided to investigate, after doing a donut and the object was brought on board. It was a life ring from the Viking Serenade, I asked Captain Ron what type of ship would it had come from? His guess was a freighter of some kind. Dave said he wasn’t sure. I let it go at that. Just over a year later I was on a return trip from Catalina Island to Dana Point Harbor. I was with a few others on a 37 foot sailboat when we enter the shipping lanes of the Los Angeles / Long Beach Harbors. An Oil tanker crossed our bow as I looked at her stern and saw her name, Monrovia Serenade. Her last name was the same as her sister ship.
After placing the life ring away, we were back on the fly bridge and cruising in a straight line. We motored the afternoon away until we were in the path of a Navy cruiser. Their bridge was aware our position as we tacked back and forth, steering for the cruiser’s stern. Before we knew it she was miles away and we continued heading west. With nightfall approaching, San Clemente Island was to our starboard beam as we enjoyed dinner in the lounge.
Our watches were 3 hours on and 6 hours off. On my 0300 to 0600 watch we passed by the Cortes Bank by about 6 miles. It is a submerged pinnacle with deep water all around. This is where the USS Enterprise scraped its hull awhile back and caused some serious damage. The location has become a Big Wave spot with surfers riding 50 ft.+ waves. As the blinks on the radar screen disappeared Cortes Bank was 22 miles behind us.
The next day was a peaceful Sunday with glassy seas until mid-morning. The weather fax indicated a low-pressure system in place 850 miles to the Northwest of our position and increasing in size. The weather changed from clear to cloudy and the seas became bumpy. Monday and the seas became more bumpy and things started falling off the galley tabletop and upper shelves. You had to brace yourself while you were walking through the hallways just in case a cross swell jolted the boat.
Tuesday and there was a break in the cold front with a day of its not so bad kind of. During a designated time in the mid-morning the transfer of fuel was done using a shorten garden hose and a electric water pump. Our speed was reduced to a couple of knots and the bow pointed into the wind while the refueling from the bladders to the boat’s fuel tank was taking place. The rear fuel bladder was first to be depleted followed by the bow bladder and then the side bladders.
The crew quarters were on the port side in front of the engine compartment. Captain Ron’s quarters were the V-berth in the bow section. The lounge had an L shaped sofa with a dining table on the port side of the lounge, a stereo system cabinet, a color T.V. and a VCR on the starboard side of the lounge. With the rear door that led into the fantail in the middle of the windowed bulkhead.
During the night watch the stars came out and the Milky Way was in sight and you could see clusters after clusters of stars pouring beyond the horizon. Compared to seeing just a trickle of a few stars while in the city. Wednesday morning, the weather fax indicated another low pressure system to the Northwest again. This system was quite big, Dave mentioned it was a mother of a low. Captain Ron said you mean Molow with a laugh that was on the borderline of a cough. I didn’t care what they called it, it looked pretty bad compared to the last system we just went through.
Sure enough, Wednesday and the seas were rougher than before. With confused seas and a occasional elevator drops. That is where the boat’s bow would plow through a wave and the entire boat would drop straight down, about 4 to 6 feet. At night when you are sleeping there would be a space in between you and your bunk when that happened. The noise from the engine room was more pronounced during this time period, but since sleep was at a premium, the noise didn’t matter. The 0000 to 0300 and the 0300 to 0600 watches were the difficult times during the storms. Taking a pounding during the day and waking up to the pounding of your early morning watch, for 3 straight days made for a pummeled frame of mind in the darkness of the early morning hours.
During the second night of the second low the cradle holding the forward fuel bladder fell apart. In the morning I went forward to check on things and saw the boards were to the side of the bladder with the nails pointing straight up. We were pretty lucky considering there was still about 50 gallons of fuel left in the bladder and no punctures.
Saturday and the seas started to calm down with the trades appearing. I started to eat meals again instead of the water and crackers that suited my appetite during the stormy weather. The sun was out and Cumulus clouds were all around with rolling swells of 20 ft. The boat with its stabilizers out cruised down the back of the swell into the trough and back up the face of another swell. By the afternoon the swells had diminished and were half the size. It was quite pleasant for a change, and with these type of condition the mood changed to let's send a message in bottle.
Having a few empty wine bottles available, Dave began melting the parafin wax to seal the bottle with. Captain Ron was the first to send, so he placed his message in the bottle and had it sealed and went to the fly bridge and tossed it over. Dave soon followed in the same manner. It was my turn, and I used my poetic license to describe the events leading to the toss. On it I wrote: if it were to be found I requested the finder to e-mail back and I let it go at that. We moved on as the possibility of receiving a returned e-mail floated away.
Super Bowl Sunday and the atmosphere felt like a bet was going to happen. During the changing of the watch, Captain Ron wanted to make a bet for the Super Bowl. Since we were out in the middle of the ocean and nothing else was happening, it sounded reasonable to me. Captain Ron betted on the Rams and I took the Titans. The wager of five dollars was made. The only way we could keep track of the game was an old radio with a not so good reception. We heard the kickoff before it started to sound scratchy and after a few minutes, nothing at all. Reception was hit or miss being so far out. (about 900 miles from Hawaii)
For the next couple of days during the night watches while looking over board, you could see the phosphorescence sea life going on as the bow’s wake made its way to the stern. They looked like fronts of miniature flashlights spaced out about every foot within the wake. Disappearing into the night as we traveled on. The swells became smaller in the days to follow and the water temperature was rising, reaching 70 degree one day before Hawaii. It was Wednesday and still traveling at 8 knots that day, we estimated our time of arrival into Hilo around 1 or 2 the next morning.
Since this would be Captain Ron’s first time into Hilo Bay, he thought it best to approach a new harbor by Day's light. So we reduce our speed to 5 knots as we continued our routines. The following morning at 0530 hours we approached Hilo Bay from the northeast slowly, as the morning light climbed the slopes of Mauna Kea to bring in the new day.
The breakwater of Hilo Bay was to our port as we followed the marker buoys leading into our anchorage at Radio Bay. A cruise ship was close behind with its guests ready to embark on the town of Hilo. There on the docks was Johan waiting to greet us, he had taken a flight the day before and had kept a watch from his hotel window for our arrival. Captain Ron med-moored the boat (the bow pointing away from the docks) and the longest leg of the voyage complete, it took 13 days from Oceanside Harbor, Calif. to Hilo Bay, Hawaii.
Stepping onto land my feet felt like it was still rocking away on the boat, it lasted for a few hours. Thursday and the day began with a breakfast at Ken's, and asking who won the game. Just think when someone comes up to you asking who won the Super Bowl a week later? A local bro told us of the results, and finished the conversation with a smile. I lost the bet and found out that the game wasn't decided until the final play, oh well. Captain Ron bought two coffee cups to take home. We went back to the boat to take care of varies chores of cleaning up the boat and the carpets.
on Honolii Bridge looking at Honolii stream. Looking at the bridge
Next on the list was some sight seeing around Hilo. We headed north on Hwy 19 past the towns of Paukaa, Papaikou, and Pepe’ekeo. As we were traveling along a quick decision was made by Johann. Since he was doing the driving, we made a left turn onto Akaka Falls Rd into the town of Honomu. We continued on the road that led to Akaka Falls.
Akaka Falls
We parked in the parking lot and took in the scenery; we followed the path that led to the waterfall and around the area. From the upper falls the water travels down the base of Mauna Kea to the lower falls and out to the sea.
Kolekole Beach Park, swing rope right side of falls.
After leaving Akaka Falls we headed back to Hwy 19, once on the highway we headed north for a short while before making a U turn and began the return ride back. Stopping at Kolekole Beach Park where there is a rope to swing on into the river and where the river meets the ocean. Turning off into old town Hilo, we had a late lunch, and after our minds were off food, we drove back down to Kalanianaole Ave and parked it at Carlsmith Park. The fresh water/salt water lagoon was a refreshing way to end the day. Once back on board at Radio Bay, sleeping on the fly bridge was quite nice, except for the early morning activities of the fork lifts on the docks.
The next morning, Friday the 4th of February Captain Ron departed back to the mainland at 0530 and Johan the new skipper took over the duties. We departed for Hana Bay on Maui at 0630. With the sun shining it tropical warmth and the clouds drifting with the light trade winds. Captain Johan had two poles out with jigs for some fishing while on our way to Maui. About 15 minutes later about a mile off of Onomea Bay the drag from both reels sounded off.
I grab one pole, while Johann took the other. Holding the base and neck of the butt of the rod with the shaft curving in a elliptical shape. I leaned back and adjusted the drag slightly and begin reeling in the fish. The fish took another run as I lean back again letting the reel‘s drag do its job, as I held on. Taking in the slack by spontaneously leaning forward and then back, while reeling in the line.
Once again the fish took off for another run. The fight lasted for about 10 minutes and after landing my Aku, or Skipjack tuna, Johann landed his Aku. Both tuna were flapping around on the fantail for about 5 minutes before being out of the water took its toll. The two Aku being of the same school were of the same size, around 10 lbs.
After the brief encounter with the Akus things became quiet, so we put the poles and feathers away and just watched the coastline of the Big Island for another hour before entering the Aleineuhaha Channel. The Channel was calm and glassy for most of the way to Maui, with Bottlenose Dolphins showing up occasionally along the crossing. These guy were pretty good size, way bigger than the type you would see on T.V. or a Marine Show.
Playing in front of the bow, criss-crossing; going under then over as more joined in. There were 3 to 5 of them at a time racing side by side next to the bow of the boat. Gradually one by one they slipped back into their day's routine and after awhile more would show up doing the same routine . Lying by the bowsprit watching them swim near the bow was relaxing. The morning soon became afternoon and Maui became larger as the day progressed. There wasn’t much boating on the channel this day. Actually we didn’t see another boat during the entire crossing until we approached Maui. There were a few boats out fishing around.
It took us 10 hours to make the crossing to Hana Bay. It was around 1630 in the afternoon when we enter the bay slowly, I happen to look back and see a couple of kayakers returning from their day of whale watching. (Robin told us that after we met them) The wharf on the south end of the bay was old and rusty but still maintaining its heritage of doing its job when the boats come in.
Hana, Maui; Google Earth view of Hana Bay and the Wharf
A local bro came by while we were laying anchor on the sandy bottom of the Bay and offered to cleat the stern line. The wharf was 7 ft. higher than the fantail of the boat and it would have been tricky getting close enough for one of us to jump onto the wharf beam. We tossed him a line and he tied us onto the wharf cleat. He told us that the ladder was on the other side of the wharf to climb up on, and where not to step. We thanked him for his advice, and his helping hand, both were very helpful.
Once on land we took a walk passed the boat ramp that was next to the wharf. A couple minutes later the buildings along the opposite side of the beach. The walk up to Hasagawa General Store for supplies for dinner took about a half an hour.
On the way back from the store, we ran into the kayakers. They were school teachers in Hana. Robin was a kindergarten teacher and Marie a middle school teacher. They were kind enough to give us a ride back to the boat in Robin’s truck. Robin waved to a local police officer parked along the side of the road and he waved backed. When we got back to the wharf, 'we talk story'. The wharf became our chat room while the sunset changed to nightfall. The ladies had to go home and we returned back to the boat.
At dinner that evening, it was decided that we would depart at 2200 hours that night for Honolua Bay on the other end of the island. At around 2220 hours the Harbor Master shows up to tell us we could not tie to the wharf and must move on. We thanked him for his advice and told him we were just about to leave. With the look of being at the right place for the wrong reason, he untied the stern line with a smile. We thanked him for his help and we were off.
With the radar indicating the bay's entrance we preceded slowly into the black of night. After leaving the wharf I went to the bow to keep a watch for fishermen in small boats. While Johan was at the helm while Dave was monitoring the radar screen. Without notice a streak of light lit up the sky to our port bow. At first it seemed like lightning, but the entire area in front of me from water level to the clouds lit up for about 10 seconds. I could see to the horizon and there weren’t any fishermen. As the light eventually faded back to black, I started to wonder about the magnitude of the light.
While reading an article in the Sunday paper in Oahu, things became clearer that Friday night. The article By Edwin Tanji of the Advertiser Maui County Bureau read:
Haiku, Maui – A Haiku astronomer, Mike Linnolt, reported an extremely bright meteor swept across the sky northeast of Hana late Friday night. A Hana police officer said he noticed a bright light, like lightning, at about 10:33 p.m. when Linnolt said the meteor lit up the night. Linnolt said at least one other astronomer observing the sky from Oahu’s North Shore reported seeing the meteor, allowing him to gauge that the light occurred about 20 miles northeast of Hana. “It was so bright, it cast a shadow from me to the ground,” he said. While meteors, commonly known as shooting stars when they occur at night, are relatively common events, a meteor as bright as Linnolt described would be seen only rarely, said Jim Bedient of the Hawaii Astronomical Society. “There’s only a slight chance that you’ll be out there looking in the right direction when it happens,” he added.
After leaving Hana Bay and the meteor experience of a lifetime, we headed for the northern end of Maui. Johann and Dave were at the helm during the seven hours that it took to get to Honolua Bay. As they made their approach to the Honolua Bay at 0530 hours, a sailboat was anchored in the middle of the Bay. After a couple tries to hook the stern anchor we settle in and had breakfast. The sailboat that was there was weighing anchor and headed west after leaving the Bay.
Left side of the picture is where we double anchored. 40 ft below is a sandy bottom.
view from the cliff on a small day
The surf was small this day breaking inside along the shore at 1 to 3 ft.. I paddle from the boat, which was anchored in the middle of the bay. It took about ten minutes to the line-up, the paddle over was interesting considering the usual procedure is from shore. While surfing the inside section, a mother humpback whale and her calf came into the Bay. One of the bros said to go under water and listen to the whales communicate, so the few guys that were there and myself went under. And sure enough just like in the documentaries the whales were talking to each other. After a couple of hours of getting use to my board, I paddle back to the boat. Hot and cold freshwater to wash off with on the fantail was right on after a surf session.
After lunch Dave took the dingy and went exploring the shoreline. I got some fins, a mask and a snorkel and went swimming around near the shoreline as well. Dave came out with his mask, fins, and snorkel. Swimming around the bay with your head down and taking a dive, here and there. Viewing the small reef fishes as they swam in and out of the reef. It was a nice Saturday, da kine you always want to last longer.
Lahaina, Maui
That afternoon we weighed anchor and headed for Lahaina. Time slipped away with Humpback whales spewing air through their blowholes in the distance. Passing Mala Wharf and the clear water beneath our way, we approach our mooring for the night.
Lahaina Harbor
A run into town for dinner was on the agenda. We got into the dingy and made our way to the harbor. The mooring of where we were at was at least a half a mile from the harbor. Passing other boats that were moored or anchored; the harbor entrance was getting closer.
surf at the Breakwall
Finding a space with the other 12 dingys on a common post was typical, so we proceeded to squeeze our way near the dock and secured a spot. We had dinner at a restaurant along Front St.. With the sun setting and the tide slapping the sea wall as the crowds ebbing to and fro. The day in Lahaina came to an end and we were back on board before 2100 hours.
Sunday morning, and awakening from a peaceful sleep with the ocean surface being calm without much rocking. After having breakfast we untied our mooring and were off to Oahu, the final island of this trip.
The view of a shipwreck on the northern shores of Lanai made me wonder about that day she went aground. We had just left the Auuu Channel that separated Lanai from Maui. Whale sighting on this day were many as well as course changes to avoid possible collision with these magnificent creature. If you were on a helicopter above us it would have looked like we were on a large slalom course on the Kalohi Channel that separated Lanai with Molokai.
There were waves breaking within the binoculars at Lauu Point on the west end of Molokai. While the mountain ranges of Molokai disappeared behind us, 100 yards to our port beam a Humpback almost goes ballistic with just it tail in the water. All that is left from a mega ton belly flop is a fifty foot elliptical white foam liquid crater of a few seconds. We continued on in the Kaiwi Channel with an ocean freighter crossing our path, about a half a mile way. It must have been traveling around 20 knots, because in no time they were gone from our sight.
Two hours later we were in sight of Diamond Head and the body to go with it. We rounded Diamond Head into Mamala Bay with racing canoes paddling near Waikiki. We approached the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor as a few boats were leaving the Ala Wai channel. Ala Moana was breaking 2 to 3 ft. and it looked like fun. Making the turn around the dock, we began looking for our slip to tie up to. There it was, the reason we made the trip. Slowly entering the slip bow first, we tied the lines and we were secure.
Ala Wai Harbor, just left if the schooner's bowsprite and beyond the breakwater is Ala Moana
After an hour of getting things taken care of I got my trunks on, a bar of wax and my board. I was paddling across the channel before the breakwater. Looking for the sandy spot to climb up on. I made it over and was paddling again. The paddle out was very refreshing and catching a wave made it that much more fun. It was a Sunday crowd, but it was cool. After catching a few medium length rides, I paddled back in. Taking it easy while waiting for the evening tide, so I had a late lunch. Back out once more before nightfall. Monday was a little bigger in the morning, but started to drop and the crowds grew to around 20.
By Tuesday the size dropped and I make a call to my friend Captain Rusty Spencer out in the North Shore. He says the surf is coming up and he'll be by that afternoon to pick me up. So around 3 o'clock in the afternoon Rusty and Dino Miranda showed up for the trip out to the country. Loading my board onto the back of his pickup truck, and thanking Johan for the opportunity to crew for him and telling Dave we will meet again, I was off. We headed out of town passing Pearl City and out to the country. Rusty and Dino talked story as we passed the reddish brown open fields outside of Wahiawa.
The North Shore appears with its white water background and its tropical breeze. The drive down to Haleiwa and the three quarter spin before getting situated in Waialua. I had dinner at Cholo's with friends that evening. I described my trip from Oceanside Harbor to Hilo, then Hana, over to Honolua, then docking it at the Ala Wai.
out in Waialua
It was Wednesday morning, and I was checking the surf with Rusty. We parked it at Chun's with the waves breaking 6 to 8 ft. After surfing for about an hour and a half the wind came up and we headed back to the harbor to do some work on his boat. Captain Rusty has a game fishing charter service in Haleiwa Harbor. That evening Rusty’s sister Sandy was having a birthday party. The night went quickly and the new day was around the corner.
Haleiwa
Thursday and the surf was getting bigger, surf check and the decision was Haleiwa. It was 10 to 12 ft. and had fair to good shape. Rusty decided to video the waves as I proceeded to paddle out through the Toilet bowl and into the channel.
Looking out at Avalanche about a 1/2 mile or so further out, the waves were breaking over 20 ft. By the time it reached the takeoff spot where I was it was about 12 ft. There were some pretty good rides by some of the locals. Friday arrived and it was time to leave. With some time left before the departure flight back to the mainland, an Aloha cruised around the waters of the North Shore of Oahu on the Kuuloa Kai II.
Three hours later and I was in my assign seat, with the rumbling of the wheels as we made our way down the runway before the takeoff. I looked out the window of the plane and reflected on the events that had occurred. The evening sail when the trip was in the early stage. The trades with its blue water days after the storms, the trip between the islands, and surfing good size waves. We entered the clouds towards our cruising altitude.
