Looking back a few thousand years and the waves were breaking about the same as today. But the Surfboard Builders of Modern Times imagined a Surfer going places on a wave that he or she has never been before. Like flight before the 20th Century.
"The Journey across the Map"
Episode 6 “Land Ho"
By Thomas Takao
Thomas Takao COPYRIGHT 2017
On the 35th day a tern was spotted flying near the ship and the watch in the crow’s nest calls out “A bird off the starboard bow”. Leonardo rushes to see and observes the bird with his spyglass flying away north by northwest. The captain walks over to Leonardo and says “We shall make a slight adjustment in our direction and change our course north by north west. After a few days the watch in the crow’s nest notices a log floating by some 200 meters away. Then he notices on the horizon two peaks and yell “Land Ho, four points off the port bow”. Leonardo and Florencia were talking about home when the watch spotted land and both turned to their left and saw the two peaks. Not knowing the height of the peaks the Officer on deck guest it would be few hour before landing, it took nearly a day before they could see the base of the large mountains.
from the Tree House LA County SHAPERS before 1950